· Fort Height: 4000 ft.( 1424 M.)
· Type: Hill forts
· Fort Range: Malshej
· District: Ahmednagar
· Grade: Medium
· Village: Khireshwar
· Days: Max 2 days
· Accommodation Facility: Ganesh caves & caves near the temple of Harishchandreshwar.
· Accommodation in Khireshwar: In Khireshwar, local school is the best for a night’s stay. In this village, we can see the beautiful temple of Nageshwar as well as ancient caves of the Yadav era.
· Food Facility: In summer & winter, arrangement for food is available on the fort. However, in monsoon, one should make the arrangement himself.
· Drinking Water Facility: The water tanks near the caves.
One can reach Khireshwar after a 2 and 1/2 hours bus ride from Kalyan bus depot. Board any bus going towards Malshej ghat and get down at Khubi phata. 1 hour (4 Kms) plain walk over the dam wall from Khubi phata brings us to the Khireshwar hamlet. The real trek begins from this point. The route follows through a col between two mountains and is covered with dense forestation. Beware of the rock patch you will encounter. It is quite a big rock patch but its the simplest of all we ever encountered. Nothing like rock climbing is necessary. The road is carved in a rock and there are railings on the way to give us mental support. Yes they are there just to give us mental support, catch one of those pipes and u will go boommmmm with those pipes. But you can always rely on the pillars which support those railings. Nevertheless its a simplest rock patch of all.
Once you have triumphed over the rock patch a little climb brings you on the top of the hill. From here you can see the route you followed from Khubi phata to Khireshwar. Now all the climbing is done, I mean almost all. Now it is just a plain walk of 2 hours or so to the Harishchandra caves. You will suddenly be confronted with a huge temple of Lord Shiva. In the mountain to the left of this temple you will see several rock cut caves perfect for accommodation. The temple is also surrounded by rock cut caves. You can stay there as well. To the right of the temple from where the stream flows a road goes to a huge cave. The cave is filled with water around the year. In the center of the cave lies a huge shivling.
Sightseeing:
Taramati:
This is the highest peak and is located on the top of the mountain caves. The trail to the top is quite an adventure. But the view from up there is awesome.
There is trail that starts from the woods directly to the top. This trail starts through dense forest. It is a big trail so theirs not much chance of one getting lost. After the woods are over, there is a small plateau. From here the peak of Taramati can be seen very clearly. Take the trail that goes towards this peak. After some time you will come across some thing adventurous, to go at the top one has to climb over a rock. You have to turn 180 degrees as you go up. Behind is a gorge of about 200 meters deep. Do not look behind as you go up this rock. After you are through this rock, the rest of the path is easy. On the Taramati peak u will find a shiv ling. The view from up there is fantastic.
Konkan Kada:
The major attraction of Harishchandragad is Kokan Kada. This cliff is not just vertical, it is an overhang, almost like a cobra’s hood. It has been climbed twice so far. Its beyond description, one should actually see it to experience the nature’s architecture. Konkan kada should be visited in the evening as well as morning. In evening one is enchanted by the sunset where as in the morning one can experience the divine feeling of being in the heavens. Some times the wind is so ferocious that a coin floats if placed horizontally. The air shoots vertically upwards. If you throw water it comes directly upwards. Also if you go at kokan kada in the rainy season, u will observe that it never rains at the edge of the cliff. Its because all the rain drops are blown of with the wind.
The view from here is awesome and unimaginable. The sunset is gorgeous. There are not many places from where u can see the sun setting below ur eye level. And the reflection of the rays from the river flowing below gives it an orange outlining. Its too cool, hard to describe it in words. Also their are colonies of vultures in the huge crevices. You need a pair of binoculars to watch them little closely.
Harishchandreshwar Temple:
The ancient cave temple of Lord Shiva situated at Harishchandragad is a place worth visiting. The temple is also has a Ganesh statue placed just aligning to the left walls. The temple is a classic example of ancient art and architecture design to its best. Apparently, the name Harishchandragad got its name from this temple called Harishchandreshwar (Name of Lord Shiva).
Saptatirtha : To the east of the temple is a well-built lake called “Saptatirtha”. On its bank are temple-like constructions in which there are idols of Lord Vishnu. Recently these idols have been shifted in the caves near the temple of Harishchandreshwar. These days many trekkers have been responsible for the sad plight of this beautiful place, as they throw plastic wastes and other things in the pond. 7 years back the water was potable, and now it isn’t suitable even to swim.
Kedareshwar :
Going rightwards of Harishchandreshwar temple, we come across a huge cave. This is the cave of Kedareshwar, in which there is a big Shivlinga, which is totally surrounded by water. The total height from its base is five feet, and the water is waist-deep. It is quite difficult to reach the Shivlinga, as the water is ice-cold. There are sculptures carved out here. In monsoon it is not possible to reach this cave, as a huge stream flows across the way.
Caves on Harishchandragad :
These caves are situated all over the fort. Many of these are situated at the foot of Taramati peak & are the place of accommodation. A few are near the temple, whereas some are near the citadel and some far away in the forests. A natural cave is on the northwestern side of the fort, to the right of Kokan Kada. It is about 30 feet deep. The folks must know many such caves. Many of these may be remaining undiscovered.
Nageshwar temple near Khireshwar :
This is a great antique construction, and diverse artistic works are seen on this. On the ceiling of the temple are beautiful carvings. There are caves near the temple.
Temple of Harishchandreshwar :
This temple is marvelous example of the fine art of carving sculptures out of stones that prevailed in ancient India. It is about 16m high from its base. Around this temple there a few caves & ancient water tanks. Near the temple, the river Mangal Ganga originates. The top of the temple resembles construction with the north-Indian temples. A similar temple is situated in Buddha-Gaya. Here we can see many tombs, in which a typical construction is seen. These are built by arranging stones one over the other. The stones are well finished. There are three caves near the temple. The cisterns near the temple provide drinking water. Here another temple called Kashitirtha is located.
The fascinating thing about this temple is that it has been carved out from a single huge rock. There are entrances from all four sides. On the main entrance there are sculptures of faces. These are faces of guards of the temple. On the left side of the entrance is a Devnagri inscription, which is about saint Changdev.
History :
The various Puranas (ancient scriptures) like Matsyapurana, Agnipurana and Skandapurana include many references about Harishchandragad. Its origin is said to have been in 6th century, during the rule of Kalchuri dynasty. The citadel was built during this era. The various caves probably have been carved out in the 11th century. In these caves are idols of Lord Vishnu. Though the cliffs are named Taramati and Rohidas, they are not related to Ayodhya. Great sage Changdev (one who created the epic “Tatvasaar”), used to meditate here in 14th century. The caves are from the same period. The various constructions on the fort and those existing the surrounding region point to the existence of diverse cultures here. The carvings on the temples of Nageshwar (in Khireshwar village), in the Harishchandreshwar temple and in the cave of Kedareshwar indicate that the fort belongs to the medieval period, since it is related to Shaiva, Shakta or Naath.
Later the fort was under the control of Moguls. The Marathas captured it in 1747. The last warrior named Joshi became a martyr in the fight against the English in 1818.
HOW TO REACH:-
Harishchandragad lies where the boundaries of Thane, Pune & Ahmednagar districts converge. There are 4 - 5 known ways to this fort, the most usual being the following ones:
· From Thane District :
One has to board the bus for Nagar from Kalyan & alight at ‘Khubi Phata’. From there we reach the village of Khireshwar by bus or private vehicle. This village is at 4km from the foothills of the fort.
The way beside the caves, where water tanks are seen, proceeds further to Junnar Darwaaja. From here, the route goes straight to Tolar Khind. Walking a few minutes from Tolar Khind, we come across a rock-patch on which railings are fixed. After ascending the railings, we come to the plateau region on which less dense forests are seen. From here, we have to cross 7 hills & after a walk of 2-3 hours, we reach the temple of Harishchandreshwar, the temple of Lord Shiva.
· Way from Belpada:
The third way is specially meant for hikers, which is via Sadhleghat. One should board the bus for Malshej Ghat & go to the village of Belpada. From here, the route goes through Sadhleghat. Here one has to climb a straight rock patch on which grips are provided. The temple is situated at a height of about 1km from Belpada. The total distance is about 19 km.
· From Ahmednagar District :
One has to board the bus for Nasik or Mumbai & alight at Ghoti village. From Ghoti, we have to board another bus to Sangamner via Malegaon & alight at Rajur village. From here, 2 ways diverge to the fort.
1) From Rajur, one has to board the bus or a private vehicle to the village of Pachanai. From here, the way is straight to the topmost point.
2) Recently, the way from Rajur to Tolar Khind has been made available. From Tolar Khind (Tolar valley), the temple is about 2-3 hours by walking.